Tuesday, November 24, 2009
I was in a car for 10 hours that day, and didn't crochet the whole time (some of the time it was dark out, this happens).
However, now that I've completed my novel (see previous post) for NaNoWriMo, I'm ready to dive back in. Post with pattern may or may not follow on this one:
Toe up, with an 'afterthought' heel that was done.... in the middle (without cutting or binding off the red yarn).
The colors are actually a bit darker in real life, but the flash brightens things up a lot.
Monday, November 2, 2009
Thursday, October 29, 2009
Thanks to no1pugmom on ravelry for help with the cleanup on this.
R1- I began with a magic loop
R2- 6 sc in loop or 2nd chain from hook (6 sc)
R3- Inc around (12 sc)
R4- Inc around (24 sc) (I really did double again here, I wanted it to turn out fairly flat on the bottom and it did)
R5- * Sc in next 3 sc, inc * around (30 sc)
R6- * Sc in next 4 sc, inc * around (36 sc)
R7- * Sc in next 5 sc, inc * around (42 sc)
R8- * Sc in next 6 sc, inc * around (48 sc)
R9-10- 2 rounds even. (2 x 48 = 96 sc)
R11- 6sc, [yo, pull through 1x, yo into same stitch and pull through all (twice; this is two sc of the row below)]; 3 sc and repeat [ ] section, sc remainder of row (48 stitches, with bobbles each counting as 1)
R12-23- 12 rounds even (12 x 48= 576 sc) (I also took some time to make stitches in grey yarn around the feet/bobbles to accent them before moving too far in the 12 rounds here.)
R24- 10 sc, 5 sc flo, sc remainder (Attach white yarn to the 5 front loop spaces to create fangs! You don't actually HAVE to do the flo stitches, but I found it helpful in placement.)
R25-27- 3 rounds even (3 x 48= 144 sc) (I placed the eyes at this third row.)
R28- * Sc in next 6 sc, dec * around (42 sc)
R29- * Sc in next 5 sc, dec * around (36 sc)
R30- * Sc in next 4 sc, dec * around (30 sc)
R31- * Sc in next 3 sc, dec * around (24 sc)
R32- * Sc in next 3 sc, dec * around (18 sc)
R33- * Sc in next 2 sc, dec * around (12 sc)( This is when I stuffed)
R34- Dec around (6 sc)
R35- Dec around (3sc) (I wanted an extra row to give the bat a bit of a point on his head as compared to the bottom.)
R1- Ch 6.
R2- Sc front loop only down chain, then go back down chain sc back loop only.
R3- Ch 1, turn, and sc back to top. Finish off.
This should give your ears a bit of a curve to them, so they look more like bat ears. You can also sew them on in a curve if they don't come out already shell-shaped.
Note, you'll want to leave long tails of yarn on either end to help you sew the fangs onto the face. Please read all the instructions for this section before beginning! It's unorthodox I'm sure, but it does work.
Make only one.
R1- ch 6, turn
R2.0- Go through 3rd chain from hook, yarn over and pull through, go through next chain, yarn over and pull through 2 loops on hook, yarn over and pull through all, finish off
R2.1- With long tail from other end, make a slipknot. Chain 2, yarn over and pull through at first chain of the original chain, yarn over and go through the next chain, yarn over and pull through all and finish off.
At the end of this, you should have two points with yarn dangling off them, so you can now use the ends to sew the fangs on.
It's best to read over this whole wing pattern and the note before beginning.
This pattern of decreasing the number of big stitches by one on each row is what creates a curved wing edge. Continue until wings are large enough; this was 8 rows for me (once I began that portion fo the wing). I did two rows - one toward the middle and one back down to the edge - before decreasing the number of stitches.
R1- Ch 21, turn
R2- Sl st into 2nd chain from hook, sc through remainder, ch 3 and turn
R3- Make 5 tr into next 5 spaces (this counts as 6 tr), make 5 dbl into next 5 spaces, make 4 hdc, sc up to the last sc in row (4sc), sl st into last sc, turn.
R4- Sl st into first sc and repeat all previous row stitches until the end of the row (that is, make a sc where there was a sc before, make a dbl where there was a dbl before, etc.)
R5- Ch 3 and sl into last tr, ch 3 in the same spot, continue with 4 tr (5 incl. chain), 4 dbl, 3 hdc, 3sc, sl into next stitch, turn.
R6- Sl st into first sc of row, sc in each of the next two, make hdc in hdc, dbl in dbl, tr in tr.
R7- Ch 3 and sl into last tr, ch 3 in same spot, continue with 3 tr (4 incl. chain), 4 dbl, 3 hdc, 2 sc, sl into last stitch, turn.
R8- Sl st into first sc of row, repeat stitches from previous row (as in rows 4 and 6).
R9- Ch 3 and sl into last tr, ch 3 in same spot, continue with 3 tr (4 incl. chain), 3 dbl, 2 hdc, 1 sc, sl into last stitch, turn.
R10- Sl st into first sc of row, make sc, 2 hdc, 2 dbl, 2 tr and finish off.
Optional: On the back side of the original chain, attach a new loop and ch 3. Make 2 tr (on back side of original chain) and finish off. Leave enough yarn to sew these tabs into the main body. (This is how I did it, but it's not strictly necessary.)
Thursday, October 15, 2009
Monday, October 12, 2009
Tuesday, October 6, 2009
I made this puppy to go along with the hat I designed in the previous post.
Obviously, if you're familiar with amigurumi, it's a pretty simple design. On the other hand, if you're not, I don't know that my pattern is the best one to start with.
That being said, here goes nothing!
In this case, bulky weight yarn and a 3.75mm hook for the brown.
I had stash white that is sport weight and used a 3.25mm hook on the white portion.
Safety eyes (these are 9 mm) and a big needle for sewing in ends/pieces. Preferably also a stitch marker.
You'll find the pattern below this lovely large photo.
Without further ado:
Create a shrinking/magic ring with 5 stitches.
Expand each row by 5 (a stitch marker is probably helpful here) until you reach a total of 30 stitches.
Invisible reduce down to 10 stitches before creating and placing the muzzle and eyes.
Invisible reduce down to 5 stitches. Stuff head.
Increase next two rounds by 5 stitches each.
Repeat round at 15.
Increase by 5.
Repeat round at 20, 2x.
Increase by 5.
Invisible reduce down to small circle of 5 and stuff before finishing off.
Make a circle of 5.
Increase to 10.
3 rows of 10.
Stuff and attach.
Eyes -- make two:
Sl. st. in first chain.
Hdc 6x in 2nd chain.
Sl st. in last chain.
Place safety eyes through the gap created by the 6 hdcs and place just above muzzle. No need to stitch these into place because the safety eyes will hold them in place and they are not large. However, you will need to weave in the ends, so this would be a good use for them!
Note: When you place the eyes and muzzle on the face, there will be a gap between the two. You'll want to make some stitches between the two to keep the brown from showing through.
Feet -- make two (NOT ARMS):
Magic ring 5.
Repeat circle 2x.
Finish off and attach.
Note: I actually didn't stuff these. They're small and the bulky yarn holds the shape well.
Arms -- make two (NOT FEET):
Magic ring 5.
Repeat circle 5x.
Note: These were attached 'flat' rather than in the round. I actually didn't stuff these, either. They're small and the bulky yarn holds the shape well.
Ears -- make two:
Ch. 3, turn, sc 2x.
Ch., turn, sc 2x. (repeat 1x)
Repeat again, but place 2 sc in the 2nd stitch of this new row.
Ch 1, turn, and sl st. into the first stitch of the next row. Make 5 hdc in the middle stitch. Sl st into the last stitch of the row and finish off.
Ch 9, turn.
Make 8 sc in the first 4 sc spaces (that is, make two sc in each of the first four spaces -- this gives it a curl). Sl stitch remaining 3 spaces and finish off. Weave ends back through to attach tail.
After all was said and done, I sewed a bit of brown onto the muzzle to create the nose shape.
Monday, October 5, 2009
Given the measurement for the head and the instruction that long was OK, I worked out this:
I'm not pleased with the length of the hat, but I was working bottom-up and I thought I'd gotten far enough. However, I'm going to add on some length.
So, for pattern: Make a basic hat, bottom up, single crochet, with invisible decreases:
Chained 42, single crochet in slip-stitch-joined rounds. However, the gauge isn't important since hats should be made to fit.
That being said, I used a bulky weight yarn (5) with a J/6mm hook and 2 inches (wide) = approx 5 stitches; 1 inch (tall) = approx 3 stitches.
The ears were the tricky part. All in US units:
- Sl st into first chain. Make 6 tr into middle stitch. Sl st into last chain.
- Sc around whole fan and across base chain (make 7 sc across chain). Ch 1 and turn.
- 7 sc. NO chain, turn.
- Make 6 sc across. Ch 1, turn.
- 6 sc across. NO chain, turn.
- Make 5 sc across. Ch 1, turn.
- Repeat line 6.
- Repeat line 6.
- Make 5 sc across. NO chain, turn.
- Make 4 sc across. Ch 1, turn.
- Repeat line 10.
- Repeat line 10.
- Make 4 sc across. Finish off.
Lengthened and sewn together, you get: (pictures cut off here, but if you click on them you can see the full image)
Wednesday, September 30, 2009
I'm working on creating a dalek pattern based on my love of Doctor Who. Sure, there are patterns available, but I wanted one that suits me. I'm most of the way done with this first one and I'm seeing some definite ways I'd make adjustments.
For example: the head portion didn't come out as long and dome-y as I'd like it. Also, the lines seem a bit... diagonal. (Did I mention I'm a bit of a perfectionist?)
However, I am continuing anyway.
Any thoughts for how to correct the diagonal?
Friday, September 18, 2009
Magic ring start - 6 sc. Use stitch marker for end of each round.
Add 6 sc per round up to 42 sc (7 rounds).
Maintain at 42 sc until hat fits over head and ends approx. midway over forehead (12 rounds in this pattern, crocheting fairly loosely - I am finding on a second time around that a tighter stitch makes 11 an alright count for a smaller head).
New round: 17 sc; chain 8 (I chained 7 for the smaller 'girlie' version in order to give the wearer a better opportunity to see); 3sc in each chain back to base (21sc); sc in next 2 spaces. Repeat 5 times (6 times total, 6 tentacles). Sc to end of round.
Sc in each of 42 stitches for next two rounds.
Finish hat, weave in ends. Add stitch-on googly eyes.
Wings (make 2; turn at end of each line): Ch 3
2 sc, ch 1
2 sc, ch 3
2 sc in ch, 2 hdc in sc, ch 1
2 sc, ch 4
3 sc in ch, 2 hdc in sc, ch 1
3 sc, ch 5
4 sc in ch, 3 hdc in sc.
From this point do not finish, instead, ch 2 and make 7 sc across the top (flat side) of the current wing.
Use thinner (scrap) yarn to stitch wings onto back. I covered the edge where I joined the hat and wove ends in.
Please, please, please! Feel free to message me if there’s anything that is unclear/hard to follow here.
Also: International crocheters - I’m in the US using US verbiage (sc/hdc).
And now, introducing:
I improvised this pattern based on my own neck size, total length is a (stretchy) 12.5 inches. I used a stash button and pendant. It’s a base of a triple (U.S. term) crochet stitch, so all you have to know is triple and chain.
Ch. 6, turn.
Tr into chains 5 and 6.
* Ch 5, turn.
Tr into top of chain from row below.
Ch 4, turn.
Ch 4, turn.
2 tr. **
Repeat * to ** 5x.
Ch 5, turn.
Tr into top of chain from row below and finish.
Weave in ends. Attach button to beginning triple crochets; use end loop as button hole.
NOTE: Using the pattern this way,
the button would be slightly off-center in back if attached pendant is centered between two solid triple crochet sections.
Suggestion: If you use a fancy button, this could be the front rather than the back of the choker.